Northern Odyssey Scotland to Svalbard

Our journey begins in Aberdeen in North East Scotland, where MV Ocean Atlantic is located by a dock in the Dee River. Boarding is in the afternoon, where the staterooms are designated. After the mandatory security review and drill, we sail out through the mouth of the Dee River towards the North Sea.

On the morning of the second day of our voyage, Ocean Albatros will arrive at Lerwick on the Mainland of Shetland. The Shetland Islands consist of over a hundred islands, of which only sixteen are inhabited year-round. The islands form the northernmost part of the United Kingdom, located approximately 300 km north of the Scottish mainland. 

Vágur is a small village situated on the windy island of Suðuroy, the southernmost of the Faroe Islands. Being one of the largest and more isolated islands in the archipelago, Suðuroy locals are known for their distinctive language dialect, history, and practical no-nonsense attitude. The village is typically Faroese, with colourful clapboard houses clustered around the village

We arrive in the early morning at Tórshavn, one of the smallest capitals in the world, ruling the scattered eighteen islands that make up the Faroes. An autonomous country within the Kingdom of Denmark, the Faroe Islands are situated roughly equidistant from Norway, Iceland and Scotland. ‘Føroyar’ (as the islands are locally known) is a corruption of the Old Norse roughly meaning ‘Sheep Islands’, hinting at the island’s long sheep farming tradition and Norse roots. The local Faroese language is closely related to Icelandic and Old Norse, and indeed to the Norn language once spoken in Shetland and Orkney (with which the Faroes share ancient historical ties).

Leaving the Faroe Islands behind, Ocean Albatros will spend a day at sea en route to Jan Mayen, an isolated volcanic island roughly equidistant between Greenland, Svalbard and Iceland. Here, warmer water from the Atlantic meets the cold waters of East Greenland, often producing murky foggy conditions. However, the mixing of currents produces rich waters which nourish the wildlife of the area – from the vast shoals of herring so important to towns like Tórshavn, to the whales which grow more common as we approach the shores of Jan Mayen. 

The active volcanic island of Jan Mayen lies approximately mid-way between Svalbard, Greenland and Iceland. If not exactly in the middle of the Greenland Sea, it is located precisely on the Mid Atlantic Ridge, the reason for its volcanic existence. This enigmatic and isolated island is the only active volcano in Norway, and the northernmost active volcano in the world – although the almost perpetual clouds and fog hovering over the summit can make it hard to spot! The volcanic peak of Mt. Beerenberg reaches 2,277m altitude – making it one of Norway’s 300 summits exceeding 2000m. 

From Jan Mayen, we set a northeasterly course, aiming for the high Arctic islands of Svalbard. Situated approximately 800km north of the Norwegian mainland, Svalbard is extremely remote and isolated; Longyearbyen, the islands’ “capital” lies only 1200km from the North Pole, 800km closer than Oslo. 

Sailing to Svalbard requires a ship capable of handling any ice or rough weather which may be encountered in these northerly seas. To the west of Jan Mayen lies the West Ice, a vast expanse of floating sea ice which hugs the coast of East Greenland, occasionally drifting across the Greenland Sea to Svalbard even in summer. Luckily, Ocean Albatros boasts Polar Code 6 and Ice Class 1A ratings, making her ideal for all but the thickest Arctic ice. The unique X-Bow design of the hull also offers enhanced stability in rough seas. 

During the ‘night’ (what is night, when the sun never sets?), our vessel will have repositioned past the saw-toothed mountains of  Prins Karls Forland and arrived in magnificent Kongsfjord. Surrounded by craggy mountains, bounded by the magnificent Kongsbreen and Kongvegen Glaciers, and crowned by the Three Crowns (a set of pyramidal mountains said to represent the monarchies of Norway, Sweden and Denmark), this is surely one of the most beautiful and tranquil corners anywhere in the world. 

One of the largest protected wilderness areas in Europe, North West Svalbard was declared a national park in 1973. The area is famed for its history, which documents some of the earliest human arrivals on Svalbard. While Norse explorers may have sighted these icy shores during the Viking Age, the first definite arrival was the expedition of William Barents, the legendary Dutch explorer for whom the Barents Sea is named. While now protected from human distruption, when Barents arrived in 1596, he noted the vast numbers of whales and seals which were soon prey to English and Dutch whalers, who arrived within a decade of Barents to pillage the area’s wildlife. The area occupied the triple point between land, sea and ice, and as such was the perfect location from which to harvest the gentle giants of the oceans.

As we retreat from our voyage’s northernmost point, we will set a course for central Spitzbergen. Measuring around 400km in length from north to south, Spitzbergen is the largest island of Svalbard, the archipelago it is synonymous with. The entire island of Spitzbergen experiences a polar tundra climate, with short, cool summers and long, dark, brutally cold winters. Nonetheless, life clings on here, and Svalbard’s extraordinary wildlife can be found throughout Spitzbergen. 

During the evening, the ship will reposition to return to the port of Longyearbyen. Even this small town will feel like a metropolis after days of isolation in the wilderness of the Arctic! Longyearbyen contains the world’s northernmost… well, nearly everything! This remarkable little city is not only the northernmost town in the world (if one excludes the tiny research community of Ny-Ålesund, slightly further north on Svalbard), but also hosts the world’s northernmost civilian airport, schools, bank and supermarket. The town’s rugged frontier edge belies a core of warm Nordic hospitality and coziness – ‘koseligt’ as the Norwegians say! After bidding a fond farewell to the crew and Expedition Team, enjoy some time at leisure to explore Longyearbyen before heading to Svalbard Airport to join your flight back to Oslo- with memories to last a lifetime.