Around Spitsbergen and Nordaustlandet

You touch down in Longyearbyen, the administrative center of Spitsbergen, the largest island of the Svalbard archipelago. Enjoy strolling around this former mining town, whose parish church and Svalbard Museum make for fascinating attractions. Though the countryside appears stark, more than a hundred species of plant have been recorded in it. In the early evening the ship sails out of Isfjorden, where you might spot the first minke whale of your voyage.

Depending on the weather, you could sail into Liefdefjorden, land at Texas Bar, and cruise within sight of the 5-kilometer-long (3.1 miles) face of the precipitous Monaco Glacier. The waters in front of this glacier are a favorite feeding spot for thousands of kittiwakes, and the base of the ice is a popular polar bear hunting ground. Another possibility is the mouth of Wijdefjorden with at both sides tundra landscape and the glacier front of Nordbreen. If ice conditions prevent sailing here early in the season, an alternate route along the west coast of Spitsbergen can be implemented.

You may turn to Sorgfjord, with sunken French and Dutch ships (end 17th century) deep under the surface. You have the chance to find a herd of walruses some way west of the graves of 17th-century whalers at Eolusneset. A nature walk here can bring you close to families of ptarmigans. The opposite side of the fjord at Heclahamna is also a beautiful area for an excursion in a semi desert area.

The northernmost point of your voyage may be north of Nordaustlandet, at Chermsideøya, and Phippsøya in the Seven Islands. Here you reach 80° north, just 870 km (540 miles) from the geographic North Pole. Polar bears and walruses inhabit this region. The ship sails eastward among the pack ice and sail through the area where the Italian captain Sora tried to rescue the Nobile Expedition in 1928.

We sail by the eastside of Austfonna on Nordaustlandet and stop by Isisøya (formerly a Nunatak surrounded by glaciers but now an island in the sea) for a circumnavigation by Zodiac cruise. You then may pass Kapp Mohn, part of the largest ice cap in Europe and famed for its meltwater waterfalls. From there we head for the never visited waters of Kong Karls Land, where we sail at a distance of more than half a kilometer from the shores. It is a famous denning area for polar bears.

We will opt to sail against stream through Heleysundet between West Spitsbergen and Barentsøya, when you arrive in a scenery of nearby glaciers like Negribreen. Later in the day we may land at the mouth of the valley Skjolddalen on West Spitsbergen, four kilometers from an Ivory Gull colony. A landing at Diskobukta on Edgeøya, near a canyon with a large Kittiwake colony is also an option. Other landings like at Kvalhovden near mighty glacier fronts are also possible.

You start the day by cruising the side fjords of the Hornsund area of southern Spitsbergen, taking in the spire-like peaks: Hornsundtind rises 1,431 meters (4,695 feet), and Bautaen is a perfect illustration of why early Dutch explorers named this island Spitsbergen, meaning “pointed mountains.” There are 14 sizable glaciers in this area as well as opportunities for spotting seals, beluga whales, and polar bears. We may land in Samarinvaagen and Birgerbukta, where we have great opportunities for a long walk.

Today you find yourself in Bell Sund, one of the largest fjord systems in Svalbard. The ocean currents make this area slightly warmer than other areas in the archipelago, which shows in the relatively lush vegetation. Here there are excellent opportunities to enjoy both history and wildlife. A possibility is Ahlstrandhalvøya, at the mouth of Van Keulenfjorden, where piles of beluga skeletons can be found. These remains of 19th-century whale slaughter are a haunting reminder of the consequences of rampant exploitation. Fortunately, belugas were not hunted into extinction, and you have a good chance of coming across a pod. Alternately, while cruising the side fjords of Bellsund, you can explore tundra where reindeer like to feed as well as rock slopes where little auks are breeding, near Vaarsolbukta.

Every adventure, no matter how grand, must eventually come to an end. You disembark in Longyearbyen, taking home memories that will accompany you wherever your next adventure lies.